A Wonderful Anniversary

 Husband and I have had the most precious day here in the Highlands, true - it's always an amazing place to be but yesterday was extra special. Our wedding anniversary dawned with sparkling skies and a beautiful warm breeze. We set out for the Gairloch coast  with a view to visiting the monument to the Arctic Convoys of the second world war. It sounds an odd choice of visit but it is an area of extraordinary beauty and tranquillity as well as a place of remembrance.

What we did not expect was to meet two kindred spirits on our journey in this remote part of the highlands. I    knew that someone I had been on an online course with lived out this way and we actually passed her home and studio. We called in on the off chance and I'm so glad we did, three hours later after a most convivial lunch and conversation with the most delightful and genuine couple of people, we left feeling that we were leaving old friends. It helped that by an amazing coincidence John had been to the same school as her husband and were able to reminisce about their school days. A new friend to share crafting with on my next visit in October.

We eventually carried on to the end of the peninsula and were pleased to find that several other people were visiting the monument (we are usually alone when we visit here) and to make the day even more special the wild orchids were in bloom. I never cease to be thrilled by the sight of them.

Just to outdo the orchids we also spotted the biggest bird we had ever seen - a Sea Eagle, which have recently been re-introduced to this area. They are huge and easily identified by their tail feathers and shape.

We came home to a wonderful meal of lobster and champagne, prepared by our lovely stepdaughter and husband and were so full with good food and happiness we walked down to the end of the loch with the black lab. and watched the sun set into the sea. A day to cherish and remember.

A Little last minute shopping.

 

Our daughter Lucy arrived Saturday after a long journey by train from London. She is spending Christmas with us here in Ullapool. Today I thought the nicest thing to do would be a trip to Cromarty to introduce her to the delights of the Black Isle. Needless to say we ended up in Gardiner and Gardiner and being heavily into vintage delights she fell instantly in love with this wonderful Aladdin's cave of antiques and curios to say nothing of a wonderful warm welcome from the proprietor Helen Gardiner. 

 

 

I'm so pleased that Lucy also fell in love with this late Victorian beaded caplet I had imagined her wearing it on my last visit to the shop. I love the way she has teamed it with a Gap vest - very chic!

 

 

One of my 'finds' was just as pleasing, a roll of heavy satin name tags  that was obviously from a London store, It looked quite old and a little web research revealed the  department store was famous for having it's windows smashed by the suffragettes in 1912.

 

An hour or so spent beach-combing (the best pastime ever) on the sands and rocks of the Cromarty Firth finished another lovely day.

 

Seasons Greetings to one and all.

 

 

Clootie Tree and Cromarty

 

 

 

The Clootie Well on the Black Isle driving out  to Cromarty is one of the most fascinating sights to come upon. The tradition which is thought to have originated in pagan times revolves around taking the waters from the well and hanging fragments of clothing of sick members of the family in the trees in the hope of a cure. This tradition is still taken up with some enthusiasm because there are about fifty yards of textile hung trees. 

 

Our friends, Biddy, Fran and Bill found the experience fascinating and slightly unnerving.  On a icy cold winter's morning it was quite surreal to wander amongst the hopes of so many people.

 

 

The aim of the day out was a visit to www.helengardinerantiques.com

which proved to be the best experience of all. It was lovely to be with people who had knowledge of some the wonderful things we looked at in Helen's shop. Chinese pottery and robes, old linens and tapestries, treen and intricate copper stamps, paisley shawls and fossils. The list is endless, everywhere is artistically arranged with treasures and curios and a big log fire and tea made by Helen herself which was very welcome. We could have stayed for hours and listened to Helen telling us stories and showing us rarities and desirable objects.

We all came away pleased with our purchases (as usual I had a bag of linens). 

 

 

The week has gone so quickly and tomorrow John will drive our friends to Inverness Rail for their journey home to Peterborough. It will be very quiet without them and the dog is going to be devastated without all their attention.

 

A Day to Remember

 

 

Today was memorable in many ways, good friends, good food and a perfect winters day. When I saw the early morning sparkling light I knew it would be a good day to introduce our newly arrived friends to Achmelvich beach. After a drive through the dramatic scenery of Knockan Crag and Inchnadamph and a walk alongside Loch Assynt we arrived at Lochinver just in time for lunch at the famous 'Pie shop'. It lived up to it's reputation,  it was so good to watch everyone enjoying the meal. We decided to walk lunch off on Achmelvich beach.

 

 

This is the first time I've been on the beach when it was frozen solid, a strange experience, even the dog refused a swim (the first time ever).

The car temperature said -3c in the relative shelter of the car park. I think it must have been at least -5c down on the shoreline - I could feel my eyelashes freezing. It was glorious, we spent almost three-quarters of an hour playing with our very hyper dog and collecting shells before the cold drove us back to the warmth of the car.

 

 

We have enjoyed each others company so much today - what more can you ask for? (Some people had pies for tea as well).

 

 

 

 

Strange Light

 

A little dress making today - for Isla who is growing out of the last two dresses I made for her in 'newborn size' and is ready for the three to sixth month sizing. I 've used a lovely soft corduroy in chocolate brown ( how seventies) and some very worn Indian silk, probably forties/fifties era.

 

 

Our walk this afternoon was amazing!

I often take this shot, it is walking north out of Ullapool where the loch enters the sea  and the route the ferry takes to Stornaway. I'm not sure if you can see it but there was a peculiar white halo around the Summer Isles, making some of them look as though they were floating above the sea. I must ask one of my local friends if this is a well known phenomenon, I'm sure it was down to light conditions.

 It all adds to the 'other worldly' feeling that I love about this place.

 

 



Lazy Sunday Afternoon

 

 

I didn't want to venture out today. I just wanted to finish this book ( so I could start another one). The days are short up here, it's easy to hibernate and not get any exercise but John and the dog needed to walk so reluctantly I tagged along. No snow in the village yet but the surrounding mountains have a good dusting of the white stuff.

 

 

 

 

I've promised myself that I will go swimming in the local pool, It will have to be bath temperature at least to get me in. It's one of those ideas that sounds wonderful when you say it but in reality not so tempting at this time of year.

 

 

 

I did feel warmer for the walk and it gave me some thinking time for the next altered book.

 

A Winter Walk Along the Loch

 

 

Looking down the loch from our bedroom window this view called us out to play quite early this morning. John and I got ourselves bundled up against the elements and decided to head out the point at Rhue. It was bitingly cold at first but as the sun came over the mountain the exercise soon warmed us up.

This old wreck looks like a rotted whale carcass from a distance and always marks the point of decision on this walk, to go on or head back to the warmth of West House. Today we carried on.

 

By the time we got to the second wreck we could see veils of snow falling on the mountains and decided to head for home.

 

There is something wrong with this picture..... only one black lab. Sadly Tarka the old lab. died last week at a grand old age. She died mid walk along these shores. I can't think of a better way to go, she is greatly missed by many. However the younger dog kept our spirits up with his antics on the walk back. When I read that Gina's beloved Barley died yesterday I realised that that was the fifth labrador of my acquaintance that had died in the past fortnight. A big hug for all those that are missing their companion.

 

 

A little crafting is taking place, I'm working on my Indian themed altered book. My phrase for this piece hasn't come into my brain yet so I'm not sure where it is going for the moment, no doubt inspiration will arrive in due course. 

 

 



 



 

A Loch Side Studio

 

Among the many things I love about this place are the artists I re-connect with every time I'm here, one of my favourite people is the artist Francis Fogg.

Francis lives with her husband in a magical house, that is almost lapped by the loch. Set into the hill beside the loch is her studio - crammed to the rafters with all the makings of her art. It is visually so exciting to be in this space. The reflected light from the water, the pieces of driftwood and beach combings make little cameos of still life everywhere you look. Nautical fabrics, chalky paints, ropes, strings, shells and pebbles all add to the maritime theme that inspires her work.

Francis works in paint, paper, print, textile and driftwood montage and makes haunting imagery that instantly conjure up the West coast and Islands of the Highlands . My visit today was brief but plans were laid for working together in December when I'm next here.

Something to really look forward to. 

 

 

It snowed very gently on and off this morning until a fierce wind built up and drove the temperature down so low it bit into your skin, later the sun came out and felt warm through the window so we took the dogs for their usual run and then it hailed with a fury. We all ran back to the warmth of the Aga and I sat and made another bag to while the afternoon away before I went to visit Francis at tea time.

 

 

 

This is my last post from Ullapool for this trip. I hope the roads are clear for our long journey home on Sunday, I like adventures at the start of a trip not at the end. 

 



 

  

A bit Dreich

 

You would think from my last few posts that the sun always shines here - this is lunchtime today. The secret is to treat each day the same but dress accordingly, so the dogs were walked in the rain and chill and I'm so glad we did, because we got quite close to some resting birds today.

 

 

 

Our birdbook identified them as Turnstones.

 

These are Oystercatchers, stirred into flight by the youngest dog.

 

The dull weather meant a project needed to be found for this afternoon

 

A new peg bag was needed in one of the letting cottages. I found some off cuts of the Liberty peacock fabric circa. 1963 that were the original curtains in the manse when my step daughter first came here some ten years ago. I had converted these to french blinds and tucked away the odd bits and pieces left from that project. I also found some Harris tweed from cushion covers I had made for here a couple of years ago. I couldn't resist letting the Liberty logo from the selvedge be a part of the design. I hope some of the future guests will recognise that iconic fabric from the days of our youth.  

 



 

 

Achmelvic Dreaming

 

Leaving Ullapool to go north  this morning I just had to capture this view as we were leaving. Looking out to the Minches and the Summer Isles - so different to the last photo I took of the same view a few days ago.

 

Destination Achmelvic Beach, anyone who knows me or follows my blog will have heard of my love affair with this remote part of Wester Ross. A demanding journey that takes you down eventually to this.

 

A white sandy beach lapped by turquoise seas, backed by  the machair of Asssynt a very special piece of our country. Spring time means the land is covered with alpine wild flowers, especially adapted to this wild landscape. Anytime of the year the beach looks like it has been untouched and unchanged by time - until you look towards the land - a worrying number of caravans seem to be proliferating. I only hope that the harshness of the climate here for at least seven months of the year keeps it as remote and untouched as it has been for the last ten years that I have known it.

 

My first stop is always the rangers hut to sea what has been washed up and what wild life has been spotted, followed by a mad dash over the dunes to the beach.

 

 

Even Tarka the old dog couldn't resist the lure of the water today and at 18c I couldn't blame her. The water however feels like ice-melt from the pole.

 

The journey home was marked by wonderful skies that just filled me with joy ( cloud gazing being another past-time).

 

When we got back to Ullapool we sat in the garden enjoying the last rays of a balmy autumn afternoon.

 

Our days are so lovely here and filled with places to go and things to do so that by evening I am content to sit and sew or draw, in a very relaxed kind of way. I want to get this cushion front finished for my next Trident meeting, I think it will be done within a couple of days, and then I can think of quilting it and making it up.

 

 

 

 I must show you this fabulous boiled wool scarf I bought at www.unlimitedcolour.com from a very chic little shop in Ullapool. It was made in Kashmir and sourced by the shop owner Polly Hoad who has an enviable eye for very arty, desirable clothes and jewellery.

 

Note to self - that is definitely my last indulgent purchase of this holiday!

 





 





 

Cromarty Calling

 

One of the things I really look forward to when we come to the Highlands is the day we spend at Cromarty.The journey takes you from the west coast to the east and is a 140 mile round trip. Nothing is a quick jaunt in this area but the scenery ensures that the journey never palls. There are all sorts of things that draw us here, the light, the architecture, the waterfowl reserve, the walk around the point to name but a few. 

 For most people of my age our first introduction to this place would have been the shipping forecast at 6 o'clock (marking bedtime) broadcast on the radio in the fifties. Fortrose and Cromarty among others were just evocative names that formed the soundtrack to our childhoods.

The journey this morning started with scraping the ice off the car and the temperature remained at freezing until we got into Cromarty by mid morning. Our first port of call was Gardiner and Gardiner ( just google it - lovely website!) our favourite antique/curio shop. A roaring fire greeted us and coffee was made and the most knowledgeable and friendly owner - Helen Gardiner as always, made us feel really welcome. This shop is my kind of paradise she has such an eye for the unusual and desirable. I came away with my usual small haul of goodies.

 

Scraps of old fabrics, traycloths of the finest linen and a stamp that will fit into my timepiece theme beautifully. It is an aluminium block advertising Ingersoll clocks and watches - in old money. Definitely my best 'find'. Amongst the more serious antiques there are piles of linens to tempt, and fragments of ancient tapestries and tarnished gold fringing. Some gorgeous original copper etched stamps depicting  intricate ironwork gates for grand residences caught my eye as did a tapestry seat cover (Aubusson) that showed the most fascinating workings on the back. Helen offered it to me at what I thought was a very reasonable price but alas budget had already been blown at James Hawkins studio last week.

 

 

I came away feeling very pleased with my find and can't wait to start some work around this stamp.

 

  

Looking out to the Summer Isles

 

That was yesterday, a heavenly day spent in Lochinver with John  and Dick Lindsay. I seemed to be forever stopping to take photos - the light was really special.

Today I felt the need to work into my sketchbook. Using my favoured Ullapool motif I made two print blocks with some sticky backed foam.

 

 

A positive and a negative. Then using the two or three colours I had with me I just started to print.

 

 

 

The first one is a bit bland, I have to warm up my colours.

 

Still not wonderful but I like where the dark edges give a little depth to this one.

 

 

I want something warmer but I only have lemon, ultramarine and white with me. I think I'll try a little colour manipulation in Picassa.

 

There now that hits the spot for me. I think my brain is reacting to all the blue light of the past few days. I suddenly want magenta or maybe a touch of orange.

 



 

 

 

 

 

Melon Udrigle Sunday

 

Melon Udrigle beach is a Sunday destination for John and I and made even more fun by my daughter and son-in-laws's two black labradors, who we are baby sitting whilst their owners enjoy a well earned rest in Crete.

 

Tarka is an elderly lady who has been given a new lease on life by the arrival of Garth, a year old, full of life, young gun!

The light was incredibly intense and the temperature was freezing but it didn't stop the younger dog from chasing into the water after the waves.

After a bracing walk on the beach we take our usual track over the dunes to the 'sculpture gallery'.

 

You never know what will be there - today we were not disappointed.

 

 

There were two wonderful sharks? for our delight. Over the years we have seen giant crabs, dinosaurs, skeletons and figures all laid out to make up a wonderful outdoor art gallery.

The drive back takes an hour and a half  but the sensational scenery makes the journey fly by and we are soon home and warming up with wet dogs and a big pot of tea.

 

Some textile work is going on.

 

Cushion making is well under way, inspired by the wonderful fifties patterned remnants I found in Stamford just last week.